Laos Again...
After a sad farewell with Sarah and Lindsay in Hanoi, I hopped on a bus bound for Laos to fulfill my dreams of living off the land. I had stayed in contact with a farm we had visited while traveling in the Bolavaen Plateau (See prior entry on Southern Laos) and decided to spend a month volunteering with them.
Having spent several days in the chaotic, motorbike clogged streets of Hanoi I felt an immediate sense of serenity upon my arrival back in Laos. En route to the farm I decided to check out the massive Thonglor Cave which is nearly 8km long. I spent a couple days in the area exploring via a boat and hiking around the beautiful environs. While here I also had the opportunity to stay with a sweet family who provided me with copious amounts of sticky rice and a comfortable bed to rest my head.
The family I stayed with while in Thonglor
After a couple days of caving, I undertook a long day of travel which involved multiple rides in the back of trucks and on the floor of buses to finally arrive to the Tha Theng Organic Farm. The Farm serves as a model of organic agricultural practices and is used as an educational tool for local farmers who increasingly clear cut forest and apply excessive amounts of pesticides. The Farm is maintained by seven young Laotians who are recent graduates from various agricultural school within Laos and is managed and funded by a Lao based environmental NGO.
My experience on the farm proved to be far beyond my expectations. Upon my arrival I was immediate put to use as human ladder, picking various fruits from places the average Laotian would find impossible to reach. My work also entailed such activities as watering vegetable beds, weeding coffee plants, making compost, and feeding goats. When I was not busy getting dirt under my fingernails I was gorging on sticky rice and a bounty of fresh picked fruits and veggies. In addition I learned a wealth of knowledge about organic farming techniques as well as the medicinal properties of virtually every plant I encountered. While the amount of English spoken by the people on the farm was minimal, they were extremely friendly and welcoming, and I quickly settled into the idyllic agrarian lifestyle I had dreamed of.
Serving as a human ladder by picking down some papaya
Making Compost
Watering some veggies
Heading out on the tractor
Lunchtime!
Me and the Farm Crew
Unfortunately, after a week this dream came to an end. The local “authorities” stopped by the farm and requested to see my passport. After seeing that I only had a tourist Visa, yet was volunteering they threatened to confiscate my passport unless I paid an exorbitant bribe to them. After paying the scumbags the informed me that I continued to volunteer at the farm they would make further visits and no doubt request additional under-the-table payments. The next day I vacated the farm, and while I was extremely disappointed to leave, the wonderful experiences I had on the farm will not soon be forgotten.
Bound for Bangkok
After my abrupt departure from the farm, I spent a couple days trying to figure out what to do and where to go. Fortunately I was able to get in contact with a college friend (Taj) who lives in Bangkok, and before long I was on a bus to Thailand. I spent about five days with Taj exploring the crazy world of Bangkok and sampling an array of delicious foods. I was also able to witness the celebration of King's 83rd Birthday in which thousands of people crowded the streets lighting lanterns and shooting off fireworks in his honor. While a sharp transition from my previous week living off the land in Laos, I had a great exploring a new city and catching up with an old friend.
Local Bangkonians having their fortunes read
Dim Sum!
Taj and I hit the Beach
One Last Stop in Laos
But before long I was on the road, heading yet again back to Laos. This time en route to Saigon for my flight back to the US. As I had about a week left before my flight I decided to visit a fellow volunteer I had befriended while at the organic farm. Saman, a Sri Lankan, who works for a NGO educating farmers about effective organic pest management techniques, invited me to visit the Northern Lao province of Xieng Khaun where he was temporarily working. I spent several days living with him and accompanying him with such daily activities as purchasing rice at the market, cooking Sri Lankan curries, and providing technical assistance to local farmers. While I was visiting, Xieng Khaun happened to be hosting a nationwide sporting event. It seemed to be the Lao equivalent of the Olympics, however the sports consisted of: kickboxing, a game with tops, crossbow-archery, and a weird form of hackey sack. I took the opportunity to take in several kickboxing bouts during my stay.
Saman Making Sri Lankan Curry
Saman and I (notice the slight height differential)
Lao Kickboxing
Heading Home
After one last border crossing into Vietnam I headed south to catch my flight in Saigon. During my last couple days I soaked up the balmy weather and downed as many bowls of Pho as possible. It was a month of wandering, but filled with enumerable great experiences.
One Final Bowl of Pho
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